Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!faqserv From: dzatz@ny2.pace.edu (Dr. David Zatz) Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.chrysler,rec.answers,news.answers,alt.hi-po.mopars,alt.answers Subject: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 4/6 Supersedes: Followup-To: rec.autos.makers.chrysler Date: 3 Mar 1998 12:33:40 GMT Organization: Unaffiliated Lines: 690 Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU Expires: 1 Apr 1998 12:33:06 GMT Message-ID: References: Reply-To: dzatz@ny2.pace.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: penguin-lust.mit.edu Summary: Idle, stalling, power, mileage, transmissions X-Last-Updated: 1997/04/20 Originator: faqserv@penguin-lust.MIT.EDU Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.autos.makers.chrysler:70082 rec.answers:38233 news.answers:124632 alt.hi-po.mopars:718 alt.answers:32512 Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4 Posting-Frequency: 15 Last-modified: 1997/3/18 Version: 3.8 last changes: #2 (stalling) DISCLAIMER: The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the use of the information. Some of the information is opinion. The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made without the permission of the maintainer (dzatz@ny2.pace.edu). - - - - - - - - - - - - PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions There is a separate Neon FAQ. Also see: Part 3 - Classic cars Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff Part 6 - Other stuff * Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables, which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean = the battery terminals and cables first! * If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat, pur= ge the system of air bubbles.=20 * Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on the web site at http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ This site goes down frequentl= y. ** Index ** Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the "search"= or "find" feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries.=20 1. Stall/hesitation/sag on turns 2. Stalling (several entries) 3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5) *** (see also #28 and other items) 4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting 5. Stalling / blown fuse (ignition feed) 6. Fast idle on startup 7. Random misfiring 8. Knocking 9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix 12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15) 15. Cold / freezing weather problems 16. Hard to shift in cold weather 17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle 22. Automatic transmission jerky in downshifts (see also #69) 22. Abrupt downshift from 3 to 2 23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping 26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts 27. Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes 28. Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically (see web site). 30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running 33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6) / icing of carburetor and other parts 35. Engine sometimes dies / car just quits (stalling). (mod 1/96; several causes) 37. Magnum V-6 engine problems 39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow 41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter 43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5) 44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration 45. Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site. 47. Hesitation (see related topics above) 48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT 49. Turbo cutting out / power loss light 50. Jeep 4.0 stalling 54. Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6 73. Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder 77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts 80. Power loss or gas mileage loss 82. Poor mileage, cold starts 83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 1. Stall, hesitation, or sag on turns George Young (georgey@bnr.ca) solved a problem with a 2.2 liter engine stal= ling or hesitating on right turns (taking about 2 seconds to catch again) by replacing the Hal= l Effect pickup. A wire had broken inside the insulation, and turns let the wire disconnect mo= mentarily. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. Stalling Devo@gonix wrote that his car drove fine, but died sometimes for no reason.= It was a bad coil. Tony Donnelly said that his 1986 Laser would run fine when it was cold and hot, but would stop in the middle (say, after five minutes). The problem turned out to be the Hall effect sensor. There were no codes. When the car just quits, it could be a loose battery connection, or a bad a= utomatic shutoff solenoid (which cuts the engine to prevent dieseling). Also check 2.2 and 2.5 for distributor pickup - may intermittently fail without showing fault codes. (Hall effect sensor). This is about $15 and is= not hard to replace. If these fail, try the oxygen sensor. George Batten 's '91 Voyager with 90K miles was stallin= g for no apparent reason. The service tech cleaned the throttle body plate in under an hyour = ($50), curing it. peperoni@ccnet.com's 1994 Voyager (58K miles) stalled at traffic lights. Th= e problem was the ignition feed fuse. It is located under the dashboard at #16 in this case b= ut might be elsewhere in other cars. The dealer put in a 20A fuse though the circuit is= rated at 10A.=20 Ron Smith wrote about a fix for a problem also sent by a couple of others i= n the same week: the fuel pressure regulator on some turbo cars (possibly other EFIs) allowed to= o much pressure build-up; the pump shut off and turned on again when the supply was exhaust= ed. The result was that the car would sag and/or quit when starting from a light; if it was al= lowed to idle it would sputter for a second every minute or so. It made a "kind of a high os= cillating weezing noise and then nothing."=20 --------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30) Problem: on 84 Laser, 88 Omni, and 87 Shadow (2.2 liter, turbo and non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes goes away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Solution: turning off the defroster; check= the speed/distance sensor and connection (tzz@po.cwru.edu (Tom)), freon level in the a/c (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back side of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness got hot enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and re-insulated the wires, which fixed the problem. ********** High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI: Most likely automatic idle speed system. Check for fault codes. Check wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or wires that seem stuck together (separate and insulate from each other). Also check EGR system, vacuum system, and timing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting Bob Meyer wrote about the Stratus (Cirrus/Breeze)'s= automatic transmission making a buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting gears or pulli= ng to a stop. He said this noise, which also occurs on the Acclaim and other cars, is normal= and comes from the solenoids. It is most noticeable from outside the car. He warned that a con= tinuous buzz or whine could indicate low fluid or a bad pump, "But if what you're hearing i= s only during shifting from park into reverse or drive or coming to a stop, then the deal= er is probably telling you the truth." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5. Stalling / ignition feed fuse blowing. peperni@ccnet.com finally got his Caravan's continously blowing Ignition Fe= ed fuse problem fixed for $80. The problem originated from the ground blue and white wire = in F15 circuit. Autowest Dodge fixed it ("the service was excellent") after another dealer = was unable to. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6. Fast idle on startup (Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products. =20 The throttle body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot restarts; during a hot restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for = the first 10 seconds only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10 seconds during a hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor= . ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7. Random misfiring The fuel injector has two connections going to it: switched power and grou= nd. Pull the FACTORY wiring diagrams out, disassemble EVERY connector which carries the ground feed to the injector, and saturate them with television tuner cleaner (I use Caig Labs' DEOXIT). See if this cleans up the problem= . Scope the switched power lead to the injector. You should see a transition which is about 1.2 ms long -- this is the peak period. You'll now see serrations wh= ich will vary with things like temperature, power demand, etc. (this is the hol= d period). Maximum back-emf kick will probably be around 30 volts. If all t= his is ok, then the driver is probably fine. If the peak period is too short, then measure the injector's resistance and compare it to factory specs -- either it's shorted or the driving is going into premature current limiting (bad driver). Intermittent misfiring, usually becoming worse on humid days, is indicative= of electrical problems. I'd also check the intake manifold vacuum (should be around 16" to 17" Hg, at idle). If you haven't replaced the oxygen sensor, replace it -- this may reduce the misfiring. (Bohdan Bodnar) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. Knocking The knocking could be caused by low oil pressure. You'd probably want to h= ave this tested. It is possible to replace the stock oil pump with a "high flow" pump which wil= l alleviate this problem (or, rebuild the engine). - Bohdan Bodnar, bbodnar@lucent.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix Vaughn Smith suggests that, when you replace your rotor ($6 at a dealer), y= ou clean the Hall effect pickup (just under the rotor, you can't miss it!). This helped him q= uite a bit on three cars. Be careful to put it back the exact same way it was when you took it= out! Also clean under and around it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13 From: jizwang@cc.umanitoba.ca (Jizhong Wang) - 84 Dodge 600 ES A couple of months ago the car stalled with the "Power Loss" light. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I took = the car to a dealer and was told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it. Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. Check the connections and vacuum leaks before you replace it. BTW, my MAP sensor is under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is two inches above ECM. (tzz@po.cwru.edu adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to the left, above and behind the belts. It has one vacuum hose and one three-node electrical connector attached to it. They range from $70 -$100 US at the dealer. If the MAP is shot, the engine will shut down after starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine will then run (rough) in some models. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 15. Cold weather problems Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling): Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402 Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions) francini@munch.lkg.dec.com sez this problem is common to cars which have nonsynchronized reverse gears. Shift into a forward gear before going into = reverse. Or wait a few moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the engine shaft stops spinning. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 17. 2.5 liter knock/idle schum@northernnet.com (Janos Schumacher) says: "A 2.5 is a stroked 2.2 so t= he skirt of the piston goes past the bottom of the cylinder. This makes the piston wear aw= ay at the cylinder walls making them slightly oval. The noise you are hearing is known as pis= ton slap and the only solution is to turn up the radio. Once the car warms up the cylinders= become more round and the noise goes away." Chrysler's service bulletin says: Cold engine knock a few seconds after sta= rtup, lasting 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or tappet noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually disappears when the car is warm. OR Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F. -- TSB 09-06-93 provides for computer replacement. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 22. Transmission jerky / downshifts abruptly "Tranny downshift from 3 to 2 in an extremely abrupt motion...if the van slows to less than 10 mph and gas is applied, tranny jerks and makes a metal pinging noise." FIX: Replacement and reprogramming of the controller= ; and fluid change. There is a TSB.=20 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There is a TSB, but the dealer said = "you have to complain LOUDLY." The service guy called it the 'post shift bang' " ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts TSB 21-16-93 covers "harsh 2-1 downshift" on the 41TE transaxle, the four-speed auto in most CC cars from 1989-1992. The change is replacing the transmission control module (3.3, 3.8, or 3.0 liter engine only). ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 27. Rough idle - several cases Switched from Getty and Citgo gas to Mobil, Amoco, and Gulf. Made a tremendous difference. EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off. Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited) My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer from the vacuum lead. Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle, better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may have been a leak in the EGR system. My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had corrosion on them (a scan t= ool showed that it took a long time to reach 180F and that it NEVER went above 180F during hig= hway driving); I opted to replace the CTS and connector. Cold start problems went away and = fuel efficiency improved. No fault codes. =20 If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature sensor's connector and see if the situation improves. (Bohdan Bodnar) Dave says: try the basics. Replace the rotor ($6), distributor cap, wires (= 8 mm silicone coated lifetime warranty name brand=3D$20 mail order!), plugs, maybe the O2 sensor= ($30-50) --=A0all at once. Do it yourself!!! May give you a surprisingly smooth idle from a 2.2/= 2.5 TBI. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor (passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay) Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer (SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts. (dschmitt@thymaster.interaccess.com (David Schmitt)) Ron Smith 's 1986 Lebaron GTS was stalling after warmup and= not restarting. The fuel pump was worn out.=20 ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6) In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60 and 65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the tailpipe. The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the intake air enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the factory. The kit is not expensive. --- My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes up from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine, and hard to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum actuator in the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working. In cold weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air flow through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland) --- The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the hose that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position it somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold air from making its way over to the carb.(Ken) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 35. Engine sometimes dies. Defective Hall-Effect pickup. (about $40) (Michael M. Knox) (Also check the automatic cutoff solenoid) (about $12) steinb@sasknet.sk.ca (Bryan Steiner) solved stalling on his 88 Voyager: "Th= e wiring harness runs over the exhaust pipe connecting the front cylinders to the rear exhau= st system. My harness had fallen down and the exhaust pipe burnt through one of the wires= and when it shorted on the pipe, the engine would die. I took a small piece of string that tied= up the harness to the air intake hose. Examine the entire wiring harness for damage and chec= k all the connectors." With regard to a 1989 Spirit, 93,000 miles: car stalls now and then, but runs fine if the MAP sensor is unplugged; MAP sensor has already been replaced. Bohdan Bodnar writes: ). Hook a scan tool to the computer and set it to capture snapshots of the data the computer sees. 2). When the problem occurs, the driver (or whoever is operating the tool) informs the scan tool of this. The tool will now mark the captured data frame as the "trouble frame." 3). Unload the data from the scan tool--the frames before the "trouble frame" show what the computer saw before the problem occurred, the trouble frame shows what the computer saw when the trouble occurred, and the subsequent frames show what the computer saw after the trouble occurred. Disconnecting the MAP sensor merely causes the computer to substitute a default value in its memory for the MAP reading and to ignore this sensor's output. You can achieve the same by disconnecting the vacuum hose to the sensor with the engine off and then starting the engine. The computer won't see a change in MAP while cranking, will set the MAP circuit fault code, and then ignore the MAP sensor. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 37. Magnum V-6 engine problems Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't accelerate. It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed, under mild acceleration. David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors, causing intermittent missing. Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left valve cover. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow Snow and rain spray blew in through the grille, through the opening where the air conditioner lines go. That moisture ended up directly on the distributor and ignition wires. I put some pink fiberglass house insulation in the gap around the AC lines, just jammed it in, and have not had that problem since then. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter >After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point >where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the >gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe. With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5) 2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to moderate speeds. The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a= tight enough fit. Eventually the pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several months before it produces symptoms. The pin backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you get driveability problems. (dotto@ix.netcom.com) First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get l= oose. One TSB involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel)= to the right strut tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem. It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89 Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): it would falte= r. The dealers (all 13 I went to) replaced the map sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, turbo boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other gadget...I found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem in under an hour. The plug wires had been installed incorrectly. (jnoyes@u= sa.net) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere) Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora ) Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve. Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good carburetor spray solvent. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased" distributer, and "fixed" to some degree. ... According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a "single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s. The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is = not changed by this problem, valve timing *is*, and distributer rotor "phase" is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 49. Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2 turbo) It turned out to be a disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola) If the wastegate is not opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel. As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac Alan Crossett) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling). The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------- 54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good carburetor spray solvent. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 73. LH transmission clunk / rough downshift bwetmore@cadvision.com (Blair Wetmore)'s dealer reprogrammed the 4-speed el= ectronic transmission's computer to cure the shudder that occurred when the torque c= onverter locked up under light throttle. Downshifts at low speeds are much better.=20 vinp@ix.netcom.com (Vincent Paul) notes that there is a similar TSB on othe= r four-speed automatic transmission shudders and mis-shifts.=20 -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts profgmby@cybercomm.net (Sir Spamalot) and Wayne Taylor both had vehicles wi= th 3-speed TorqueFlites. In colder weather the engine flares up or shifts slowly from = 1st to 2nd during the first few hundred yards. profgmby says this causes no problems and has = over 150,000 miles on his. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 80. Power loss or gas mileage loss Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt ro= tor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw that it read when each= "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup point; the inner surface of the vane, t= hough, was extremely dirty. He replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas milea= ge and power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo, with so= me improvement in each case.=20 -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 82. Poor mileage, cold starts George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes 17= , 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the coolant sensor, causing th= e computer to guess the engine temperature (high idle). The cure: cleaning near the coolant sen= sor connector, on the round 6-position connector in behind the battery; and on the bulkhead c= onnector on the driver's side. Then check voltage at coolant sensor (leave it connected, ju= st skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in with your multimeter) it should be s= omewhere in the 3 Volt range. If that doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the= computer. Note: don't forget that if you remove the computer connector you must re-grease i= t by Chrysler procedures. -------------------------------------------- 83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6 (Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff te= nds to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted loop (like a hangma= ns noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section around the stud that holds the air c= leaner duct. I let the twisted straight section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. = I try to get the wire as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect = of preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold running proble= m. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum wire) in order to keep the opening = small, otherwise the initial idle is very high. =20 Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke plate. During= very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and the car starts right up. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- --=20 -- http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ - Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central - NEW URL dzatz@ny2.pace.edu - NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS -------- End Forwarded Message -------- -- -- http://z.simplenet.com/cc/ - Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central - NEW URL dzatz@ny2.pace.edu - NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS